...or just use DR, DI or DZ.

Serial numbers are just the two letter code stamped on the damper. Here's 's the list.

quote:

Originally posted by KevinK:
...or just use DR, DI or DZ.

Serial numbers are just the two letter code stamped on the damper. Here's 's the list.

Thanks for the info Kevin. I knew how the serial numbers worked, just wanted to get the right serial number so it would work with the mod.

Steve

Let us know how the mod comes out for you!

quote:

Originally posted by KevinK:
Let us know how the mod comes out for you!

Will do.
Steve

Has anyone tried a small sheet of steel or aluminum to deflect air flow from one side vent to just below the coals? Kind of like the NBBD firebox mod? Might get enough air pull from the other side vent or the lid vent to heat up the coals (without all of the drilling). Just a thought....

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Batsarisakis:
Bryan,

The first mod has less holes in the bowl than the second mod. All other things remaining equal, like the same number of holes in the lid vent, would mean more air entering the bottom of the bowl in the second mod., therefore higher temps. That's my guestimate. I was just questioning what that temp difference between the two mods would be in a side by side comparison, to see if second mod would be worth doing. I can't imagine that the difference in temp would be that great anyway. Regards, Mike

Question...if you have say 9 holes in the bottom vent...and 4 holes in the top vent...assuming all holes are of equal size...don't five of the holes on the bottom become redundant or useless? I mean...the kettle can only intake air an an equal level to what it expels up top. Even if it draws in the same amount of air through 9 holes that it lets go through 4....why not just drill four and the bottom and be done with it.

Note: I have absolutely NO education in any aspect of this whatsoever. I'm not even qualified to do the mod. *LOL* I'd go from having a decent Jumbo Joe to having one that resembled swiss cheese by the time I was done with it.

quote:

Originally posted by Hayden McCall:

Question...if you have say 9 holes in the bottom vent...and 4 holes in the top vent...assuming all holes are of equal size...don't five of the holes on the bottom become redundant or useless? I mean...the kettle can only intake air an an equal level to what it expels up top. Even if it draws in the same amount of air through 9 holes that it lets go through 4....why not just drill four and the bottom and be done with it.

YES, Correct! That was my point exactly! You can put 50 holes in the bottom if you want to, but if you can't flow it out through the top, it's pretty much a moot point, NO?
If anybody would like to get into Flow Dynamics, Bring it on.

But.... With more holes, if you take the lid off, you are going to get an extra hot BBQ.

If you take the lid off...all of that heat is going to escape. All you'll do is torch the surface touching the grate. Besides...any heat created by that kind of increase in oxygen will simply be reduced upon the return of the lid.

i dont understand flow dynamics but i think more holes cant hurt.the wsm has 3 lower vents and one top vent.i dont think i would only use one of the three lower vents because flow dynamics would prevent the other two from making a difference.
it might not draw any more air than is expelled but i guess it might help in burn more evenly. i wont drill more holes in the top, but it seems to work pretty well with the extra holes.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Tim C,

It's just like a fireplace... big hole at the bottom, small hole at the top.

hadnt thought of it like that. makes sense

quote:

Originally posted by Russell Y:
But.... With more holes, if you take the lid off, you are going to get an extra hot BBQ.

Lid on. I use the lid when grilling.

Hey Bryan, now that you have used this a long time, is there anything you would have done differently by chance or changed? And whats your thoughts about how this is working for you (now). did you get that ultra high heat, RuthsChris/etc. tast (I think you described) I want to do this but wanted to get some thoughts from you now. Just somehow missed this (never really looked ) I have def. noticed the temp thing and I am on the side of you that understands what your talking about w/ high heat, sometimes you just need it, I do a lot. Love this grill, but my adjustable grate piece o' crap can sear and high heat better then this . but its so damn big its not always convienient. (and its built into my patio down below)
Did you get a fan going on it?
If I do this do you mind checking this thread a bit, thanks for the info

Dan, Sorry I missed this question. I love the mod and wouldn't do anything different. With the 4 holes on the bottom, it really gets the lump red hot. I haven't used the grill in a while, been doing everything on the WSM. I need to get it out the next time I score some ribeyes on sale. The simple mod really transforms the SJP into a fantastic high temp searing grill. Whatcha waiting for, get a drilling.

I guess what im thinking of is yours and JD McGee's, except a combo.. or something. I decided (after thinking about it for all this week) that I can't have that little space between the bottom ash catcher and grill. So the plan is to take my hydrolic rebar bender and bend the legs, lower down them, and re-drill them as well, thus hopefully leaving more space and room for air flow, more convenient, bla bla.. um anyway that leads me to, do you happen to know off the top of your head what material the legs are and will the unibit be the tool of choice for drilling them also? Other then that appreciate you getting back to me, real helpfull. I just know sometimes i'll do something and later on realize I could have changed this or that, but thats everything I do.

quote:

Originally posted by Dan H.:
do you happen to know off the top of your head what material the legs are and will the unibit be the tool of choice for drilling them also?

The legs are just aluminum, you can use the unibit to drill new holes in them, but a reg drill bit would be my first choice. The legs are thicker than the bowl and the Unibit is tapered, so if you do use the Unibit make sure to drill both sides of the legs, to get a non tapered hole.

While I agree that what flows out the top must've come in the bottom, I believe that - within reason - more holes are better at the bottom. With less holes the fire has to create a vacuum to draw air in, while more holes means more O2 available to fire without drawing vacuum.
After all, how do you lower the temps in a kettle/WSM? You "shrink" or reduce the holes.
I have 3 SJG vents in my Platinum and it has no problem holding 800 degrees.

I have two SJP's. One that is used almost every day and the second still brand new. And yes, maintaining temp is a problem and I plan on doing the mods (once I locate a unibit). I have been experimenting a little lately and with my last cook was able to maintain a higher temp for much longer. I banked the coal on one side with the vent leaving that vent closed. The opposite side vent is completley open. The lid vent (open) is directly over the lit coals. Seems to provide better airflow over the coals. Looking down the top vent I was able to see flames the entire cook.

Now, do I really need that unibit?

the unitbit is pretty bad a$$ in general and for me at least It will be used for much more then this, depends on your lifestyle I suppose. I visualize this being "the tool" for drilling the wsm or any grill by weber although I havn't laid into mine yet, but it handles a lot of different tasks and works clean and well. hope that helps. Just wouldn't want to see you chip the heck out of the finish on the brand new one or the other one